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Nonostante il concetto di fast-fashion sia abbastanza recente, questo modello di business ha totalmente rivoluzionato il processo di produzione e di acquisto. I vestiti di oggi non sono fatti per durare. Sono realizzati secondo il presupposto che alle persone piace cambiare ogni giorno, quindi non si preoccupano di quanto tempo durerà un capo, perché comunque non è destinato a essere indossato a lungo. Questo è il principio alla base del fast-fashion ed è il comportamento che la maggior parte degli high street brand promuove attraverso il loro modello di business e le loro campagne di marketing. Avete mai provato quella sensazione di non aver nulla da indossare anche se il vostro guardaroba sta per esplodere? Oppure vi è mai capitato di comprare qualcosa solo perché era un affare o temevate che non avreste più trovato qualcosa di simile? A volte, specialmente quando siete un po’ giù o vi sentite tristi, avvertite il ​​bisogno di andare a fare shopping per stare meglio? Vi siete mai chiesti quanto tempo trascorriamo ogni giorno a cliccare cuoricini agli outfit degli altri su Instagram o a riempire la lista dei desideri su Zalando? Questi sono esattamente i tipi di comportamenti che il fast-fashion promuove. I brand ci espongono continuamente a molteplici stimoli, utilizzando tutti i tipi di canali e tattiche. Generano e soddisfano le nostre esigenze di consumo abbuffandoci di nuove collezioni ogni settimana, promuovendo foto di capi di abbigliamento a prezzi stracciati, bombardandoci con messaggi di vendita, promozioni “paga 2 prendi 3”, incredibili politiche di rimborso che ti consentono di restituire i vestiti comprati molteplici volte senza costi aggiuntivi, concedendo resi anche quando il capo è stato palesemente indossato. Non è altro che un circolo vizioso: compri, restituisci, ricompri, cambi, compri ancora e ancora, sempre di più, solo per il gusto di farlo. Anche se sai benissimo che non ne hai bisogno e il tuo guardaroba è stracolmo, continui a comprare. Perché quel vestito è talmente un affare che sarebbe un peccato non comprarlo. Questo è il modo in cui la moda e le aziende iniettano piccole dosi di droga ai loro clienti. Accelerano i cicli di vita dei prodotti e incoraggiano il riciclo, attivando comportamenti irrazionali e il consumo incontrollato. Ci fanno credere che abbiano a cuore l’ambiente offrendo punti di riciclaggio nei loro negozi o regalano un buono da spendere in negozio in cambio dei nostri vecchi abiti; in questo modo ci illudono che stanno facendo qualcosa per l’ambiente, ma in realtà stiamo semplicemente nutrendo i loro profitti, dandogli ancora più ragioni per produrre nuovi vestiti.

Il problema fondamentale è che siamo sempre più disconnessi dalle persone che producono i nostri vestiti, che diventa difficile immaginare ciò che accade in Paesi come il Bangladesh, l’India, la Cina e la Cambogia dove i grandi marchi commissionano il lavoro a dipendenti pagati meno di $3 al giorno. Come sarebbe altrimenti possibile per loro vendere abiti a prezzi stracciati durante i saldi e assicurarsi comunque un margine di profitto? Alcuni politici, economisti e imprenditori della moda sostengono che è solo grazie all’introduzione di questi modelli di business che queste persone hanno accesso a un lavoro e un salario (certo, perché $3 al giorno sono un salario!). La verità è che il fenomeno del fast-fashion ha portato ad un aumento del 500% nel consumo di abbigliamento, soprattutto tra i giovani, rispetto agli anni ’90 (The True Cost, 2015). Il sistema è interamente costruito sul presupposto che sei quello che indossi; quindi i vestiti sono il mezzo principale per esprimere la propria identità. Le persone sono sottoposte al lavaggio del cervello attraverso interminabili input provenienti da molteplici fonti ed entità, che mirano a convincerle che il consumo è l’antidoto all’infelicità. Ma il vero risultato del processo di acquisto è esattamente l’opposto. Ci entusiasmiamo all’idea di acquistare qualcosa di nuovo per dimostrare di essere autonomi ed essere liberi di scegliere cosa comprare e quando. Ma é esattamente questo il paradosso. Questo è esattamente quello che il sistema vuole che pensiamo. Ci illudono che la nostra libertà sta nello scegliere cosa indossare, quando la verità è che abbiamo perso la facoltá di scegliere se comprare o meno. Lo shopping è diventato una prassi quotidiana e la gente ha smesso di chiedersi se ha davvero bisogno di comprare. Il processo decisionale d’acquisto (famosissimo tra gli esperti di marketing e di psicologia cognitiva) è cambiato. E’ stata eliminata la fase del cosiddetto “riconoscimento del bisogno”e si è passati direttamente alla “ricerca di alternative”, come se la necessità di acquisto fosse scontata. Bisogna mettere un punto a tutto questo spreco, specialmente se a pagare il prezzo del consumismo sono altri essere umani. Bisogna smettere di supportare modelli che prevedono lo sfruttamento umano e ambientale delle risorse. Bisogna tornare alle origini, alla moderazione. Ricordarsi che la felicità non è fatta di stoffa, nè di poliestere, così come la soddisfazione e il compiacimento non si raggiungono accumulando oggetti, ma esperienze, errori, momenti. Noi consumatori, abbiamo il potere di cambiare le cose. La bella notizia è che possiamo cambiare le cose restando seduti comodamente sulla poltrona di casa, perché per ristabilire l’ordine delle cose basta dire di NO. NO allo sfruttamento. NO al consumo irrazionale.

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