Il lato oscuro dell’abbigliamento vegano

01/02/2021
Moda vegana T shirt vegan

Man mano che le persone diventano più consapevoli delle pratiche legate allo sfruttamento animale e delle questioni etiche legate alla produzione di pellame, molti marchi di moda hanno cominciato ad offrire collezioni di abbigliamento vegano in alternativa ai comuni capi e accessori in pelle.


Ma cosa significa realmente VEGANO?


La Vegan Society definisce il veganismo come “un modo di vivere che cerca di escludere, per quanto possibile e praticabile, ogni forma di sfruttamento e di crudeltà verso gli animali per il cibo, l’abbigliamento o qualsiasi altro scopo“. Ciò suggerisce che le pelli vegane possono essere realizzate con qualsiasi tipo di materiale alternativo, come fibre vegetali, sughero, tela o tessuti ecc …

Tuttavia, la maggior parte degli accessori e dell’abbigliamento vegano attualmente presenti sul mercato, soprattutto quelli economici, sono realizzati con cloruro di polivinile o poliuretano. Basti pensare alle borse di noti marchi fast-fashion, quelle solitamente vendute a 29,99 euro. Apparentemente, queste borse possono sembrare realizzate in pelle. Tuttavia, un’analisi più approfondita -e l’etichetta stessa- ci suggerisce che in realtà esse sono realizzate in poliuretano.

Poliuretano (PU) e polivinilcloruro (PVC)


Sia il PVC che il poliuretano sono materiali compositi, ma ci sono alcune importanti differenze tra i due.

  • Materia prima. Il PVC è un materiale termoplastico ricavato da materie naturali quali il sale e il petrolio. Poiché contiene cloruro, non è biodegradabile; quindi, se hai bandito cannucce di plastica e bicchieri usa e getta dalla tua vita, dovresti pensarci bene prima di acquistare accessori realizzati con questo materiale. D’altra parte, il PU rappresenta un’alternativa più rispettosa dell’ambiente, sebbene le materie prime del PU siano polimeri a base petrolchimica, il che significa che proviene da combustibili fossili. La maggior parte dei prodotti non in pelle attualmente in commercio sono realizzati in PU, quindi tieni presente che nonostante l’acquisto di capi in PU risulti più etico, non è necessariamente sostenibile!
  • Processo produttivo. La produzione di PVC è altamente tossica e potenzialmente cancerogena. Nella produzione, il PVC produce diossine dannose e utilizza cloro altamente tossico, che causa gravi danni polmonari permanenti a tutte le creature ad esso esposte. La produzione di PU è molto meno tossica del PVC, anche se questo non significa che la produzione di PU non sia del tutto atossica. In effetti, gli scienziati hanno trovato nei materiali costituiti da poliuretano gli isocianati, un composto che può causare potenziali danni ai polmoni.
  • Impatto ambientale. Il PVC non è biodegradabile e il processo di smaltimento e riciclaggio è sotto molti aspetti pericoloso. Quando viene scomposto in pezzi più piccoli, può essere ingerito dagli animali e ostruire il loro tratto digerente. A volte il PVC può essere riciclato e trasformato in nuovi prodotti; tuttavia, nel caso di rifiuti contenenti plastica mista o multimateriale, è un lavoro complesso e costoso da svolgere. Altre soluzioni di smaltimento includono l’incenerimento e il conferimento in discarica. Tuttavia, entrambe le opzioni sono lungi dall’essere sostenibili. Anche il PU è difficile da riciclare e la quantità di scarti che viene generata è maggiore della velocità con cui può essere riciclato, quindi è destinato ad accumularsi in discarica. Inoltre, il PU è altamente infiammabile e, una volta acceso, rilascia fumo denso e gas estremamente tossici. Il PVC e il PU non sono da considerarsi valide alternative alla pelle. Sebbene il poliuretano sembri essere meno dannoso per l’ambiente e per gli esseri viventi, ha comunque un impatto considerevole.

Se sei alla ricerca di alternative cruelty-free, ti consigliamo di scegliere tessuti a base vegetale oppure optare per borse e accessori decond-hand che puoi trovare anche nel nostro shop. Acquistando usato, non solo farai del bene all’ambiente, oltre che agli animali, ma godrai di prodotti di qualità, durevoli e unici!

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